In our shops, the ultimate satisfaction for a woodworker lies in witnessing two pieces of wood flawlessly coming together while securing the screws, aligning the mortise and tenon, or interlocking the dovetails. It is the act of crafting the flawless joint that effortlessly transforms two separate wooden pieces into an everlasting, seamless creation – and that, in essence, is the core of our woodworking work.
However, achieving flawless joinery is a challenging skill to acquire. The margin for error is minimal as even the most minute flaw in cutting or sanding can transform a meticulously crafted component of your end product into worthless wood scraps. Yet, do not fret, my fellow novice, as you are not alone. Every woodworker, regardless of their expertise, has a pile of discarded pieces. You are part of a community that shares similar experiences.
1. Glue
Since a caveman discovered that birch bark tar could be used to bind two rocks together and create a basic axe, human beings have been utilizing various types of adhesive throughout history. Over time, both humans and glue have made significant advancements.
Carpenter’s glue or yellow glue, technically called Aliphatic Resin Emulsion, is the most suitable adhesive for wood joinery among the various types available. Carpenters primarily use it because of its strong bonding properties to wood, and it is easily identifiable due to its yellow color. It does not need to be applied in large amounts and has a long-lasting effect.
To achieve optimal glue joinery, it is essential to have smooth edges that fit well together. A thin layer of glue should be evenly applied to both surfaces of the joint, and the pieces should be tightly held together until the glue sets. Any excess glue that oozes out of the joint will fill the wood grain, preventing the wood from being stained.
When it comes to handling surplus glue, there exist two different approaches. The first one involves promptly wiping it off using a damp cloth, which proves effective when the excess amount is negligible in size.
Instead, instead of attempting to wipe away excessive amounts of glue, it is possible that doing so will only spread the glue across a larger portion of the surface you are trying to safeguard. Alternatively, allowing the glue to dry until it darkens in color and then removing it with a sharp chisel might be a more preferable option.
Understanding how to effectively utilize glue is imperative since it serves as a crucial component in all other types of joinery. There is no escaping the need for glue, therefore acquiring the proper knowledge on its correct application is necessary.
2. Pocket screws
Pocket screws are an excellent method for concealing the tangible force that tightly holds two pieces of wood together, showcasing the marvel of exceptional joinery.
Kreg Tools’ engineers have already done the calculations, so you don’t have to worry about determining the angles and measurements when inserting a pocket screw into a piece of wood. Even though it may seem like a complicated task, the concept is straightforward: the pocket screw is inserted into one side of the wood at a sharp angle so that it extends out of the grain end and connects with the other piece.
By spending approximately $45, you can acquire the Kreg Jig® R3 kit, enabling you to consistently create flawless pocket screw joints. This kit includes a drilling jig for creating precise pocket holes, the necessary drill, a selection of pocket screws, and the specific square-tipped driver for tightening them.
Simply adjust the jig’s adjustable arms to match the thickness of the wood you are using, then secure it onto the front of the board. Set the lock ring on the drill bit to the correct depth (the kit’s case includes a helpful indicator), and proceed to drill into the rig until you reach the stop ring.
Take off the jig, put a thin layer of glue on the two edges that are being joined, insert the pocket screws into the holes and tighten them. Clean off any extra glue and allow it to dry.
You can enhance the process by securing angle-cut dowel pieces inside the pocket holes and carefully sanding them to match the wood’s surface. In this way, you have successfully formed a sturdy joint that conceals the screws. Alternatively, as depicted in the given example, the dowels can be utilized to create intriguing offsets.
3. Square-ended basic butt joint
Although it may not be the most durable or optimal option for all projects, this method is the simplest and most direct way to create 90 degree wood joints. In a basic butt joint with square ends, one piece of wood is positioned adjacent to another, often forming a perpendicular right angle.
In order to strengthen the butt joint, it is usually essential to use additional fasteners such as fine nails, screws, or other types of fasteners, as glue alone is generally insufficient for durability.
4. Edge-to-edge butt joint
A butt joint that extends from edge to edge is akin to a square-ended butt joint, with the distinction being that wooden pieces are placed parallel to each other on their edges. This technique is commonly used to create a wooden panel composed of several pieces.
If the two pieces of wood you are joining together exceed 12 inches in length, it is usually necessary to employ an edge to edge dowel joint or biscuit joint – which will be thoroughly explained later in this post – as using metal fasteners is challenging due to the weakness of this joint type.
5. Mitered butt joint
Mitered butt joints are employed to create a tidy square corner with no apparent wood grain. Although mitered butt joints usually provide the cleanest appearance, they may not always offer the highest strength or longevity. Hence, this kind of joint is commonly kept for lighter tasks like crafting photo frames.
In order to create a mitered butt joint, one must cut the wood edge at a 45-degree angle. To securely join the two pieces, apply glue and use clamps until the glue has dried.
6. Tongue-and groove joint
Tongue and groove wood joints are frequently preferred over edge to edge butt joints due to their ability to easily interlock one piece of wood into another. These joints are significantly stronger and are commonly utilized in applications like flooring.
In order to manually create a tongue-and-groove joint, tongue and groove router bits are typically required. One bit is utilized for forming the tongue on a specific wood piece, while another is employed to create the corresponding groove. Begin by cutting the tongue, and then proceed to switch the bit and carve out the matching groove.
Ensure that you select the appropriate size of tongue and groove router bits to match the specifications of your project, as they are available in a diverse range of sizes.
7. Right angle dowel frame joints
Despite what you may believe, dowel frame joints possess a considerable amount of strength. Various furniture builders employ these joints for diverse purposes such as constructing chairs, dresser drawers, and numerous other items.
It is important to consider that fluted or spiral cut dowels are the preferable option due to their enhanced grip in comparison to smooth dowels. Many hardwood stores offer pre-cut packages of wood dowels designed specifically for wood joinery, which can be used for this purpose.
To create the dowel frame joint, align two holes in two separate wood pieces. Introduce the dowels, along with some wood glue, into one piece of wood, and subsequently apply glue to attach the second piece of wood. This ensures that the dowels fit smoothly into the drilled holes.
In the majority of situations, two dowels per joint will be enough. Ensure they are positioned at least ¼ inch away from both edges of the rail. If working with longer pieces of wood, consider using 3 or 4 dowels.
This method offers the advantage of being simpler to create compared to box joints or dovetail joints and does not necessitate any specialized tools. All that is needed is a drill!
8. Half blind dovetail joint
When you want to hide the dovetails from one side while joining two pieces of wood for a box, opting for a half blind dovetail joint is a logical choice.
Drawer makers often choose half blind dovetail joints as they are created using a similar method as regular dovetails, with the only difference being that these joints are partially cut through the corner, resulting in a neat outer edge of the wood.
9. Sliding dovetail joints
One can opt for sliding dovetail joints, which are widely used for various purposes. Unlike cutting separate dovetails, this joint involves shaping the entire length of one board into a dovetail while the other piece of wood is grooved.
After making the cuts, all you need to do is apply a small amount of wood glue and slide the wooden pieces into position, which is a straightforward process.
Although cutting a sliding dovetail by hand is undoubtedly possible, it is much simpler to achieve this using a router, along with the appropriate attachments and accessories.
10. Rabbet joint
Rabbet joints, like half lap and dado joints, involve cutting one half of each end to create a fitting connection. These joints can be easily crafted by making a straight cut on each board, after which they can be securely bonded with glue.
Although rabbet joints are not the most durable, they are frequently employed in cabinet making as well as for the rear sections of shelves and drawers.
