Materials Required
- 1-1/2” metal roof/pole barn screws (250-pack)
- 1-1/4” 12d galvanized joist hanger nails (1-lb. box)
- 1/2” x 3” concrete anchor (10-pack)
- 14” x 10’ 6” ridge cap
- 1×3 x 8’ pine stakes (2)
- 1×4 x 8’ cedar (3)
- 1×6 x 12’ cedar deck boards (10)
- 2-in. 18-gauge galvanized brad nails
- 2” exterior-grade trim-head screws (100-pack) (2)
- 2×4 x 12’ (6)
- 2×4 x 12’ pine bracing (2)
- 2×4 x 8’ pine bracing and roofing stop (8)
- 3” exterior-grade wood screws (1-lb. box)
- 42” x 78” roofing panels (6)
- 4×4 adjustable post bases (8)
- 4×4 x 12’ cedar (2)
- 4×4 x 8’ cedar (23)
- 6” heavy-duty wood/structural screws (50-pack) (2)
- 7/8” x 10’ 6” J-channel (4)
- Construction adhesive
Make Your Gazebo
You and a friend can construct it in two days with each other’s assistance. All the building materials are available at home centers. We constructed our own gazebo out of Western red cedar due to its capacity to resist decay and pests, plus its beautiful appearance. Constructing your outdoor barbecue shelter with pressure-treated lumber could feasibly save you around $400. The cedar will need to be taken care of periodically, but the metal roofing will not need any maintenance. This beefy hand-made gazebo is designed to provide years of happiness centered around grilling.
Getting started
We laid down a pre-marked slab that was 8 feet by 14 feet in area. There is approximately 12 inches of space on the two ends that are not blocked off and lots of room for the chairs to fit on the other sides. Learn how to pour a concrete slab first.
Buy the pieces needed to construct the roof at the lumber counter within your local home store. You can acquire roof panels in the length you require, 78 inches.
Completing the coating of all the timber with a high-grade exterior tint prior to assembling the gazebo is much simpler. Once the stain has been left to dry, reserve the three most bent and contorted 8-footers. 4x4s. Put aside part of them so they can be cut into smaller webs for trusses and angle braces. Most of the cuts for the grill pergola were done with a miter saw.
Lay out the post locations
Measure and trim the bottom cross supports to the correct size, then place them side-by-side on a couple of saw horses. Take a couple of 12-ft. Line up two 4x4s on the horses. Two by fours will be used to construct a short-term form to help identify the positioning of the post foundations. Mark a pencil line 28-1/2 inches from both sides of the bottom chord, using a framing square to guide the way. Calculate three intervals of 3-1/2 inches from the initial line, and label each one.
Cut and assemble the ends
The pitch of the roof is 4/12, meaning it increases by 4 inches for every 12 inches that it goes horizontally. To create the correct slant on the upper beam, line up the outer boundary of the carpenter’s square at 4 inches and 12 inches.
Start by making this particular cut, as it can be a bit of a challenge. In that manner, if you blunder, you can shift a bit and try again. After you have completed the cuts, arrange the highest sections and make sure that each angle is the same size.
Use a miter saw to make a 20-degree cut on the apex. Once all pieces have been measured out, place them beside one another and note down the purlin sites on the top of the top chords. There needs to be a separation of approximately 20-5/8 inches between all of the purlins.
Build the trusses
Attach the upper parts of the rope to the lower portion with two 6-inch screws. Cut the webbing boards longer than necessary with a bevel of 20 degrees on one end. Attach the webbing boards at the middle of the bottom chord, and trace a cutting line on the end near the top chord as a reference. Fasten them with one 6-inch. screw in each end.
Lay out the post locations and install the bases
Cut two 2x4s (pine lumber) at 72 in. Position the 2x4s, which have lines marked on the outside, along with the highest points of the chords. Fasten them together with 3-in. wood screws. The diameter of the interior of the frame should be 72 inches. x 87 in. Position the frame so that it is both straight and in the middle, then identify where the posts will be located.
Metal holders such as these provide safety for the posts, as well as lift them above the concrete to avoid the wood soaking up moisture and decaying too soon. Make openings for the supports and push them into their spots. Insert the anchors into the openings and secure the bolts.
Raise and brace the ends
Lift one end and slide the poles into the bases. Hold the end vertical temporarily with 2x4s that stretch from the posts to stakes planted in the ground. Secure the posts in place with joist hanger screws to the base. Make sure that the posts are firmly attached to the bases and use a 4-foot level to make sure that each post is correctly aligned in both directions. In order to prevent any movements, make sure to adjust the temporary braces.
Once one end is safely affixed, raise the opposing end and make it perpendicular to the floor by attaching 2x4s from the lowest beam of the first end over to the bottom beam of the second. Secure two 2x4s directly across from each other and fasten one additional piece at a slanted position.
Framing The Walls
When buying an umbrella, be aware that the wall panels should extend 4 inches beyond the 10 feet it covers. Constructing the walls is straightforward because all eight sides have an equivalent shape and seven of them are absolutely alike. This implies that you only have to take measurements once for each component, and then the same markings can be transferred over to the other pieces being worked on.
The balustrades should have a cross design on each side apart from the doorway, where there will be no panel. I employed five-quarters wood for the posts and the horizontal members. The arch sections are fashioned out of 3/4″ exterior grade plywood. You are able to cut 2 x 2 lumber with a 2 x 4 if you wish.
Make a pattern for the arch panels on a template and copy it to your parts, the author created their own compass with a 27-1/2″ circumference to make the job more straightforward. After you have completed the noting and sizing of everything, cut all the components to the appropriate size. This helps to speed up the process and simplifies the task of generating identical pieces. I put a 27-1/2″ radius on the curved panels by using an easy-to-make compass. Using a jigsaw, I cut the pieces into a curved shape, though a band saw could be equally as effective.
Once you have established where the rail will be placed on a single post, use a square and pencil to copy the marks onto the other posts. The best outcome can be achieved using a table saw, but other alternatives such as a handsaw and miter box and a portable circular saw can be utilized to make the cuts. No matter which one you pick, you will avoid a lot of hassle if you make sure that all of the cuts are perfectly symmetrical. Assembling the walls is most effective when done on a spacious work surface. Putting a sheet of wood, for example plywood, on top of sawhorses is an effective solution. Be certain to utilize a fabric that you have examined to verify that the factory-created corners are truly square. Begin by screwing the blocks to the rails.
Give yourself ample room and use a large, flat piece of plywood as a worktable to secure and line up the rails prior to putting them together. Place one post along the edge of the work table, and then lock the rails with the sections from the drawings to the posts and balusters. Attach the rails to the posts and then to the balusters by means of screws. Attach the outboard rails to the blocks and the posts using screws.
Match up the cross members and support beam and mark the midline, this is the spot in which you would saw the miters for the half-lap union. The best way to measure the cross members is to begin by sketching the centerlines. Place the components underneath the constructed wall and note the corners. They should, of course, be close to 45 degrees. Cut the material and arrange them above each other in the square gap.
Once you’ve made the angled cuts on the wood pieces, lay the wall frame out flat to mark where the half-lap joints will be cut. Mark the area where they overlap. You will need to create slots to construct the half-lap joints. It’s easy to do this. Cut each cross member halfway through.
A circular saw should be employed to begin constructing your half-lap joints, after which a chisel should be used to handle the remainder of the excision. Use a sharp wood chisel to delicately remove the excess material. I discovered it was possible to clean these junctions by manual labor (without the use of a hammer). Be sure that the chisel is never facing your hand or body. If you don’t exercise caution, it can quickly slip and leave a distressing and deep wound.
Attach two balusters to the rails using wood screws, adding the blocks on each end to make the initial subassembly. Put the rails on the top of the subassemblies next. Then install the arch panels. A few slivers of wood that are 3/8″ thick should be utilized to hold the panels together in the center while putting them together.
Secure the crosspiece subassembly to the balustrade frame by using two 3″ galvanized screws in each corner. The entrance wall has the same dimensions as the other walls, but without the balustrade structure.
Install the angle braces
Trim the angle braces so both sides have 45-degree angles. Ensure that the corners fit snugly against the upright support and lower chord. Attach the stoppers at both ends using two 3″ outdoors certified screws.
Install the roofing
Fasten a short piece of timber measuring 2×4 with a few screws to the exterior side of the lower rafter. Attach another 2×4 to the first, but lift it up by one inch (Photo 12). This will produce an end point to which you can move your roof panels to form an ideal 1-1/2-in. overhang.
Install all the J channels before the roofing panels. Position the items in a straight line directly against the external edge of the purlins. Use snips to trim the pieces so they fit together at the highest point and connect with the provisional stopper. Secure the J channels with 1-1/2-in. pole barn screws.
Slide the opening piece of the panel into the J-shaped track and lower it so it is resting against the 2×4 piece of wood. Fasten it with 1-1/2-in. pole barn screws. Follow the screw pattern recommended by the manufacturer. Insert the following two panels and make sure they fit comfortably inside the J-channel on the other end, then secure them.
Leave a 4-inch protrusion at both extremities of the ridge cap. Position the cover and secure it in place using pole barn screws into the upper beams. Space the screws according to your manufacturer’s recommendation. Cut back either side of the summit so that it meets the J-channel.
If installing an umbrella
Put the umbrella stand in the middle of the gazebo and then place the outdoor table. After you have done that, position the umbrella on the gazebo and the dining table. Installing the umbrella is simple. Move the umbrella stand and the table you’re going to utilize to the middle of the pavilion. Raise the top section of the umbrella away from the walls, unfurl it, and attach it to the lower part of the umbrella post.
Secure your umbrella from windy conditions by tying 18″ elastic cords that have been looped through the ribs of the umbrella together with square knots. once complete, thread them through screw hooks. Attach eight elastic cord loops, one for each umbrella arm, to the screws that have been put in place. You should now start installing the eight vertical trim boards, attaching them with carriage bolts, washers, and wingnuts.
Cover the connections of the gazebo with trim pieces in order to conceal them, and have them function as poles on the exterior to secure the umbrella. It is beneficial to acquire a well-made patio umbrella. You’ll want an umbrella that will have the same longevity as the gazebo, lasting for many years. I selected a ten foot round wooden gazebo with eight sides that could comfortably fit a few chairs, a table, and still have room for movement in the interior.
Once the thin posts are put in between the space between the wall frames, fasten them by using washers and the nuts with wings on them. The measurement between the two inner walls is approximately 9-1⁄2 feet. You may choose a 11-foot umbrella, and a larger gazebo, but you will need to make the wall panels wider as well.
