Chisels are to be considered while thinking carefully and progressing in a logical manner, without introducing additional details or omitting any existing information.
For thousands of years, chisels have been employed in various forms, yet regardless of the array of types, their fundamental purpose has remained unchanged.
Chisels are an important tool found in many workshops and toolkits. They are specifically designed with a unique cutting edge for carving and cutting hard materials like wood, stone, and metal. Professionals and hobbyists in woodworking and masonry frequently utilize chisels.
Various materials such as chrome, vanadium, steel, and forged steel can be used to make chisels. Smaller chisels are especially suitable for detailed woodworking tasks, whereas larger chisels are perfect for removing significant amounts of wood.
Woodworking Chisels
Woodworking chisels have various uses, such as crafting exquisite furniture. Nevertheless, caution is necessary because there are numerous different types of woodworking chisels, and choosing the appropriate one for your needs is crucial.
Crafting intricate wood detailing is best achieved using smaller varieties of woodworking chisel, while larger tools are more suitable for removing substantial amounts of wood.
Using tools of different sizes on a single project is a common practice. Initially, large chisels can be used, followed by smaller ones as the project advances. Moreover, firm chisels are handy for working in wood pockets. These chisels have flat sides with a 90-degree angle, making them perfect for precision work in tight spaces.
It is recommended to select woodworking chisels that have handles equipped with metal caps for durability and the ability to withstand multiple strikes over time.
Bench chisels are frequently used, while socket handle chisels are known for their durability and ability to withstand heavy blows. When using socket or tang-handled chisels, it is important to strike them with a wooden mallet.
Beveled Edged Bench Chisels
Not too short and not too long these chisels are the most common and most useful chisel found in a cabinet shop. The most important criteria are that they should be comfortable in the hand, hold a good edge, and be easy to sharpen. The backs of the chisel should be flat or very slightly hollow for ease of sharpening.
1. Heavy Duty Beveled Edged Chisels
Not really used much in furniture making. This is a fine choice for boat building and to a lesser extent timberframing, or any application where the joinery is big and complicated. However because demand is so low we do not stock this style of chisel.
2. Registered Chisels
Any chisel except a mortise chisel with square, rather than beveled sizes. Usually hooped. Used in timber framing and of limited use for general woodworking. Due to low demand we currently do not stock any of these type chisels.
3. Japanese Bench Chisels
Similar in size to Western bench chisels, of laminated steel construction and in general thicker than their Western counterparts. The major difference is that Japanese bench chisels come from a framing tradition and usually have less of a beveling on the sides (especially in the narrower sizes).
4. Mortise Chisels
In the classic tradition of mortising, a chisel is malleted into the wood and then levered out to remove waste. Bench chisels don’t have the thickness to withstand the levering out, nor the stout blade angle to resist abuse, nor the length to put leverage behind the levering out.
5. Sash Mortise Chisels
Sash mortise chisels are light mortising chisels that are easy to handle and were originally used for chopping the relatively shallow mortises found in the mullions and muntins of a wooden window. If you consistently drill out the waste when mortising, these chisels will work well even for deep mortises.
6. Heavy Duty Sash Mortise Chisels
Originally developed in Continental Europe, these chisels are a heavier version of the sash mortise chisel. They are more general purpose and will get the job done. The round handles and square chisel section make them less comfortable to use than true English mortise chisels, but these features also make them less expensive to manufacture, and they certainly work.
7. Paring Chisels
Paring chisels are light, long, thin, almost flexible chisels which are never malleted. They are used primarily for carefully shaving off thin amounts of wood when fitting joints. The long length gives maximum control.
Work should begin with a general inspection of the chisel to ensure that it is in the best possible condition. A square can be used to check the flatness of the blade. It may be necessary to sharpen the chisel to ensure that it is well protected throughout the process.
Once the tool itself is in order, a ruler and carpenter’s square can be used to measure the area of the surface and depth to be removed during the chiseling process. You should then proceed to clamp the wood, ensuring that it will remain fully stable when being chiseled.
To make a small indentation when working with wood, the chisel should be positioned at a 90-degree angle. A wooden mallet can then be used to strike the chisel and carve out the desired amount of wood. The chisel should be held with the beveled edge closest to the wood.
Next, proceed to run the chisel following the wood grain. The scored area should be chipped away until the wood inside the outline has been extracted to the required level. Care should be taken to strike away from the body and only extract a small amount of wood with each strike.
Paring chisels are well suited to woodworking tasks requiring a high level of intricacy and precision. The paring process involves the gradual smoothing and removal of surface layers. Once the wood has been firmly secured on the workbench or vice, one hand should be kept on the chisel’s blade with the other on the handle.
Masonry chisels can be used for scoring, trimming, or shaping materials such as brick and stone. It is important to select a masonry chisel of an appropriate shape and width for the particular task at hand. Before beginning work, it is recommended to mark the material to be chiseled with pencil or paver’s chalk. Scoring marks can then be inserted along this line in preparation for chiseling.
Regardless of the particular type of chisel in question, it is recommended to keep a honing stone to hand, so the chisel can be sharpened as and when required. Additionally, the bevel can be sharpened and refined with the use of a grinder. Once this has been completed, it is possible to proceed to hone and polish the chisel blade.
