Successful woodworking projects require essential hand tools that do not have any cords or batteries.
Power tools have undoubtedly improved efficiency in the workshop. However, the art of woodworking predates the existence of electric tools, and there are certain manual tools that remain crucial for woodworkers, regardless of their skill level.
Hand tools are essential for addressing the specific aspects of a project, enabling you to achieve precise measurements and create accurately fitting joints. While the following list is not exhaustive, these woodworking tools will undoubtedly be relied upon for all of your woodworking endeavors.
1. The hand plane
The versatility of your woodwork greatly depends on a hand plane. It allows you to perform various tasks such as flattening, curving, and squaring wood pieces. By using a block plane, you can shape or chamfer your stock effectively. Instead of spending countless hours sanding, you can use your hand plane to effortlessly smooth the joint of a dovetailed piece. Additionally, the plane can also be used to remove sharpness from the edges of a piece.
The first priority is to ensure that the hand plane blade is sharp. Apply a small amount of oil onto the sharpening stone and position the bevel flat against the stone. Slightly lift the heel and proceed to hone it.
The blade will develop a burr, which is fine. Simply flip the blade and use the flat side to rub it against the stone to remove the burr. The depth of the plane you desire to cut can be adjusted by a cap screw that secures the blade in place.
When working on delicate tasks, it is advisable to measure the blade at approximately 1/64″. However, for more general tasks, it is acceptable to use a measurement of up to 1/16″. As you complete each cut, gradually increase the pressure from the back of the plane to the front to avoid creating an arch shape. If you plan to work on end grain, make sure to plane both ends towards the middle to prevent damaging the outer edge.
2. The caliper
Having a set of calipers is essential when it comes to perfecting your woodworking projects. Nowadays, you have the option of upgrading to digital calipers, which eliminate any uncertainty regarding whether you were within or outside the designated line. Nevertheless, it is always recommended to use metal calipers instead of plastic ones, despite the latter being more affordable.
Calipers exhibit a dual “F” shape, featuring a sizable “F” on one side to gauge the outer dimensions of an item, and a smaller “f” on the opposite side to measure the internal dimensions of apertures. In order to position the caliper accurately, one must loosen the screw to adjust the lower “lip” of the caliper, and then tighten the screw securely into place.
For measuring slot diameters, hole diameters, and dado widths, among other things, you will utilize the inside calipers. These calipers are equipped with a depth gauge at the end, which enables you to measure the depth of slots and holes. To accomplish this, simply place the end of the caliper on the hole’s edge and rotate the thumbscrew until the probe reaches the hole’s bottom.
First, you should take your reading. If you have to measure the precise thickness of something attached to a flat surface, you can utilize the calipers. To determine the thickness, place the butt of the caliper end against the flat surface, and record the surface of the item you’re measuring using the inside caliper lip that’s closest to your hand.
To determine the thickness of the piece you’re measuring, measure the distance from the end of the caliper to the backside of that caliper lip.
You don’t need to use calipers that measure up to 1/1000ths of an inch because wood, being an organic material, expands and contracts with changes in relative humidity and temperature. Trimming everything to such a tight tolerance won’t allow enough room for the piece to adapt.
3. The layout square
The 6″ and 12″ sizes are available for a layout square, or combination square. The 6″ model is preferred by most woodworkers due to its convenience in carrying. Additionally, the majority of the stock used is not wider than 6″, rendering the 12″ size unnecessary.
The layout square, which is a triangle, can be utilized to indicate square cuts on stock. After determining the cut’s length, align the layout square with the edge of the board. The shorter side of the square will enable you to make a straight, square cut on the end grain.
You are able to use the layout square to measure angles as well. Utilizing it can be beneficial when measuring for a bevel on a table saw or when marking a cut for a miter saw. Additionally, the layout square can also assist in determining an existing angle. However, it is important to ensure that the one you purchase is made of metal, as the plastic ones are not only delicate but are also prone to warping, rendering them relatively ineffective.
4. Workbench
A sturdy workbench with a flat work surface is essential for woodworking, although it is not considered a tool. An even better option is one with two vises, such as the 58-inch Nordic Plus workbench available at Northern Tool.
A hardwood top is ideal for supporting the heavy work of cutting mortises, tenons, and other wood joinery by allowing planks to be clamped to it. Additionally, the flat top serves as a reference surface for gluing, while stout legs ensure a comfortable working height. It is worth noting that a workbench can be constructed in a mere two hours as well.
5. Square
The name for this important measuring tool is derived from its purpose of ensuring that cabinets, table legs, and doors have square joints. These squares come in various sizes to cater to different tasks, and are commonly owned by experienced woodworkers.
The combination square, Japanese square, and metal-edged try square are all great options to consider. In cases where necessary, a carpenter’s square, also known as a framing square, can be used as a substitute.
6. Ruler or tape measure
Whether you reside in the United States and employ inches and feet for measurement, or any other location on Earth where metric units are utilized, you require a tool for measuring objects. We have consistently favored using a compact tape measure, which can either be 12 or 16 feet in length. These options are more lightweight and appropriate for woodworking tasks compared to a 25-foot tape measure designed for constructing residential structures.
If you do not possess a square with measurements indicated, carrying a six-inch metal rule or wooden folding ruler in your pocket or apron is highly recommended. The Vinca Stainless Steel Ruler is particularly favored by us due to its inclusion of both imperial and metric measurements.
7. Marking knife
Maintaining the same meaning, while thinking step by step, we can rephrase the text as follows: Clean and accurate layout lines are of utmost importance. Pencil lines may be suitable for carpentry, but they are not suitable for marking woodworking joints, such as dovetails. In contrast, a knife blade leaves a physical mark, while graphite from a pencil remains on the surface.
When facing a challenging situation, we have resorted to using a utility or X-Acto knife. However, for achieving precise results, it is advisable to use a marking knife specifically designed for this purpose. While some DIYers prefer left and right knives, we have discovered that a single marking knife with a double-bevel blade is satisfactory.
8. Sliding bevel
The sliding bevel, also known as the bevel gauge, is a tool that is related to the square and is used to mark angles on your workpiece. It consists of a metal edge with a long slot that can be locked into a handle made of wood or metal. This tool is ideal for gently splaying (turning outward) dovetails or table legs. The metal edge is secured to the handle using either a wing nut or a knurled thumb screw, with a lower-profile being our preferred choice.
To find unknown angles, the sliding bevel can be utilized. Insert the adjustable metal edge into the corner in question, secure it in place using the thumb screw, and subsequently transfer it to a protractor in order to determine the precise angle.
9. Marking gauge
The task of measuring and marking the same dimension can be challenging. However, it can be simplified by using a marking gauge which consists of a ruler, a locking stop, and a marking edge.
We have a preference for marking gauges with a wheel, such as the Mr. Pen Marking Gauge, rather than using a knife for marking edges due to the various options available. Adjust the ruler to the appropriate measurement and secure the stop by tightening the knurled thumbscrew. The wheel smoothly rolls and cleanly marks without getting caught on the wood grain.
When the wheel becomes dull, you can simply replace it instead of sharpening it, as it is a replaceable component.
10. Chisel
Chisels, which come in various styles, are basically blades with handles. Regardless of their cost, chisels need to be sharp in order to cut cleanly and safely. When used for joinery after sawing, chisels precisely slice or “pare” similar to how an apple is cut along the exact line.
The archetypal general purpose tool is bench chisels which have beveled edges that can fit into tight spaces. These chisels can be as narrow as 1/4-in. or as wide as two inches.
Firstly, heavy-duty mortise chisels have thick blades and square edges that can withstand the impact of chopping mortises. In contrast, there are lightweight paring chisels that are thin and flexible, ideal for dealing with challenging, dense end grain. These paring chisels are sharpened at a steeper angle specifically for paring purposes.
