If you lack privacy in your home, you may consider dividing the rooms to create a more intimate atmosphere. Constructing a non-load-bearing interior wall can provide a sense of separation and independence, even in open spaces. This task necessitates basic carpentry abilities and the corresponding tools.
Creating a new wall will significantly rely on the current structure, which includes the floors, walls, and ceiling. Some slight modifications might be necessary to accommodate the new structure, but there is no need to worry! If you are interested in establishing a new wall for any purpose, continue reading to discover our step-by-step instructions for this undertaking.
Basics of Interior Walls
There are two types of walls: load-bearing walls and non-load-bearing walls. Load-bearing walls support not only their own weight, but also the weight of materials located above them, such as header beams, flooring, furniture, roofs, and other items. On the other hand, non-load-bearing walls only support their own weight and are not essential for the structural integrity of the home.
Non-load-bearing interior walls are occasionally found in buildings. Typically, these walls are used to divide rooms or establish smaller areas, like closets, pantries, and powder rooms.
Interior Wall System Structure
Interior walls that are not designed to support any weight are classified as non-load-bearing walls.
- Bottom Plate: Horizontal bottom plate made of a two-by-four, resting on and connected to the floor
- Top Plate: Horizontal top plate, also a two-by-four, that connects to the tops of the vertical studs and to the ceiling
- Studs: Vertical two-by-four studs spaced every 16 inches, on-center
- Drywall: Drywall fastened to the front and back of the wall system
How You Will Build an Interior Wall
When constructing new houses and additions, the entire interior walls are built on the floor before being tilted up and secured in their designated positions. However, in existing constructions, it becomes challenging to tilt pre-assembled walls into place. To achieve the tilting motion, the wall’s height must be shorter than the space it is meant to occupy.
Firstly, the bottom plate should be securely attached to a stable location on the floor. Secondly, the top plate needs to be directly attached to the ceiling, positioned directly above the bottom plate. Afterwards, each stud should be measured individually and then toe-nailed into position.
To finish the wall, drywall will be installed on the studs. The drywall compound will then be used to fill the screws and seams.
Here’s how to build an interior wall
1. Locate a Position For the Bottom Plate
In order to secure the bottom 8-foot-long two-by-four, it is necessary to attach it to a stable location on the floor. If the floor is made of concrete, the concrete is deemed sufficient as a solid surface for the bottom plate.
To ensure proper placement, the wall should be aligned with either a parallel or perpendicular wood joist if the floor is made of wood. By measuring the joist positions in the basement or crawl space, you can then accurately transfer these measurements to the interior floor.
2. Measure and Mark
The first step is to identify the desired location of the wall by examining the current structure. It is necessary to eliminate any obstacles in the area where the new wall will be positioned, such as plasterboard, in order to expose the ceiling joists and wall studs. If these components are not visible, a stud finder will be needed to locate them.
To rephrase the text while maintaining the same meaning: 1. Begin by marking the center line of the new wall to be constructed. Use chalk to draw a line across the ceiling. 2. Proceed to measure half the width of the wall and mark this measurement in both directions. 3. It is important to plan for the insertion of a stud at each end to securely hold the wall in place.
To ensure accuracy, measure the positioning of each wall stud on the wall plates by placing the top and bottom plates adjacent to each other on the floor. Take precise measurements and mark perpendicular lines across the plates using a combination square, ensuring proper alignment of the studs.
3. Insert the Ceiling Plate
Before you start using tools, it is important to wear protective eyewear. Additionally, if you are working with loud machinery, it is necessary to wear ear protection.
If the ceiling joists have not been found yet, it is important to locate them now before proceeding. In the event that your new wall needs to be perpendicular to the joists, make sure to attach the wall at the point where the joists intersect. Additionally, remember to ask for assistance when lifting items if needed.
If the wall is parallel, there are multiple options available. You can choose to place your new wall directly beneath one of the joists, or you can install nailing blocks at 16-inch intervals between the joists. These blocks will serve as a frame for securely nailing your new wall.
After selecting your approach, position the top ceiling plate along the marked guideline. Secure it in place by nailing through it and into the ceiling or the nailing blocks if you have opted for this style. Ensure to use 3 ½ inch nails and work diligently to neatly fasten the plate.
4. Plumb Bob and Insert Studs
After inserting the ceiling plate, proceed by hanging a plumb bob from both ends of the plate. A plumb bob is comprised of a string with a weight attached to its end.
To determine the location of the bottom plate precisely, mark the floor directly beneath the bobs. Draw a line along the floor between these marks using chalk. Proceed by securing the floor plate in position, utilizing staggered nails in the same manner as the ceiling.
Afterwards, calculate the length of your studs by subtracting the total thickness of the two plates from the height of the room.
If the studs have not been precut, you should cut them and position them between the top and bottom plates. Attach them with nails or screws. You can accomplish this by lifting the stud into place and aligning it with its mark, ensuring it is flush with the edges of both plates. To check for plumb, you can use a carpenter’s level.
5. Secure the studs by nailing them.
Using a hammer, secure each stud into its corresponding position by toenailing. Toenailing involves driving screws or nails sideways into the vertical stud, going through the bottom or top plate. Start by inserting the nail straight until it firmly holds onto the stud, then tilt it upwards at a 60-degree angle and continue driving it until it is fully inserted.
Installing drywall is the next step in the process.
To install the drywall, follow these step-by-step instructions: First, hang the drywall horizontally on the studs in a stacked manner. Next, utilize a cordless drill and drywall screws to securely fasten the sheets to the studs. Keep in mind that according to most building codes, the screws should penetrate the wood by at least 5/8-inch.
Typically, it is recommended to stagger or break the ends of drywall over the framing to prevent four corners from meeting at one point. However, in this particular project, two entire sheets of drywall are utilized, making it unnecessary to break the ends. If constructing a longer wall, it is advisable to break the ends in a staggered manner.
Step 7: Proceed to fill the holes where the screws were inserted.
To fill the screw holes with joint compound, utilize the drywall knife.
Start by filling the drywall seams.
Using this wall, there will be two drywall seams measuring 8 feet in length. Proceed with finishing the drywall by applying the joint compound along the seam to embed the paper joint tape. Apply additional joint compound, making sure not to go beyond the boundaries of the seam.
After letting the compound dry, inspect for any gaps and fill them if needed. If there are any parts that are not completely smooth, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and sand them once all the compound is dry.
Step 9: Apply paint to the wall.
Apply primer to the drywall, allowing it to dry before painting the wall in the desired color.
