No matter the type of plane you choose—whether it’s a bench plane, rabbet plane, smoothing plane, or molding plane—there are some key characteristics in common, even though the individual designs may differ in shape and size. They possess some kind of sole, either flat or curved; a straight or bent iron that is similar in shape to a chisel; a wedge or cap to keep the iron in its place; a throat (sometimes referred to as a mouth); and a handle so that they can be easily held and the cutting can be accurately steered. The individual components combine to form a device that coordinates the depth of cutting and the manner of cutting automatically. There is a downside to planes in that they can be challenging to adjust. Contemplate a plane like a set of parts, everything which needs to be carefully adjusted to get optimum performance.
The Parts of a Plane
The threaded rods that secure the rear handle and front knob to the plane can be ground slightly shorter to take up any looseness.
Two screws or pins (as for this Bedrock plane) secure the adjustable frog to the sole; loosen them to move the frog with screw G.
The lever cap holds the iron and cap iron (E) in position by locking down on the screw in the center of the frog. Don’t tighten it too much—just enough to hold the iron but still adjust it smoothly.
The depth adjustment for the iron should need little tuning other than a wipe of paste wax.
Position the cap iron as close as practical to the cutting edge.
Make sure the surface where the frog beds with the sole are flat and clean.
Adjust the position of the frog—and the throat opening—with this screw.
The amount of adjustment that you make depends upon the state that you begin from, the degree of precision that you desire, your tolerance, and the level of performance that you anticipate from the aircraft. A jack plane that is not finely tuned does not require as much alteration as a planer that is used for smoothing. Jointing planes that require precision might fall somewhere between the two extremes. It is plausible to take a cheaply made bench plane and transform it into a reliable tool by following the tuning procedures and exchanging the thin factory blade for another sturdier one. It doesn’t matter what kind of aircraft you’re adjusting; the basic principles will still be similar.
Handles
Begin by adjusting the knobs (on planes that have them) to get a fast and rewarding betterment. Bench planes have two wooden grips: a back tote and a front knob. A threaded rod is connected to the handle and the iron casting and is secured into place with a brass nut. This type of casting may have a protruding bump that serves as a holder for the handle, resulting in it being held more snugly. Over time and with use, the handles work loose. This can be vexing when you are counting on the handle not just to prop up the aircraft but also to manage its course and to apply some downward pressure.
The most straightforward solution is to tighten the brass nut that holds the handle in place. It is possible that this has already been done, and the nut may have no more threads left. If that is the situation, place a washer underneath the nut (leather functions well) or take away the threaded shaft and grind or cut off approximately 1/8 of an inch.
It might be a good idea to switch out the unsightly plastic grips on newly bought planes with either store-bought rosewood handles or custom-made ones. Stanley’s classic rosewood-styled handles are unmatched in terms of stylishness and efficiency of use, and their glow has been enhanced by long-term handling. Don’t be afraid to trim down or reshape any doorknobs (or the surface of wooden planes) or remove the polish if it’s not a particularly important plane — it’ll make them nicer to use. Occasionally giving the wood a light buffing with paste wax or linseed oil will make it shine and help keep it protected.
Flattening the sole
Very few airplanes, both new and used, have an absolutely level base, but they are still capable of performing satisfactorily, although they may perform better when they are made flatter. The level of flatness at crucial sections of the sole is more important than general evenness. The region situated in front of the mouth and at either end of the aircraft needs to be even, at the bare minimum. The evenness at the toes and heel of the sole uses its length to help guide the plane.
It is important to have a flat surface in front of the opening of a plane in order to comprehend how the plane operates. When using a ramped iron, a shaving is positioned within the mouth of the tool, and pressure is applied to the forward portion in order to force the shaving into a curved shape (please refer to the accompanying photograph). The pressure this region of the sole applies to the wood fibers keeps displacement and destruction of the material at a minimum. This action can only take place if the bulldozer’s front end is firmly pressed against the top of the wood.
The first step in making a shoe sole flat is to check it with a straightedge. Examine the sole of the item under a good light source and check it with a ruler. It is dependent on your planned objective with the plane whether it is already okay or you will have a significant amount of time required to make it level. For a jointer, a lengthy tool used for creating exact straight edges, be prepared to even out the toe, the heel, and the spot before the mouth in order to grant the sole firm backing to cut a flat and straight surface. For aircraft with smaller feet – such as those used for joint-cutting – the entire bottom surface of the plane should be as level as possible. Having a slight indentation in the bottom of the shoe can be beneficial for decreasing the level of drag. It is said that soles with ridges or grooves slide better, and therefore, Japanese artisans design sections of their plane bases with depressions on purpose.
There are no easy ways to get a single flat surface on a sole unless you or someone you know is a skilled machine operator and has the ability to use a surface grinder. Surface grinding is tricky, to say the least. It is difficult to appropriately grasp the strange shape of many planes without adjusting several parts, as well as merely clamping them can change the sole. Using a lapping table while hand-lapping is an approach that is not as fast as using other methods, but it is much safer. The accompanying photos demonstrate this method.
Make certain that the flat iron is securely held in position but is positioned away from the fabric – the pressure of the iron on the bottom of the garment should be considered when pressing it. If the task of lapping appears excessively daunting, simply do a small amount. When the spirit moves you again, do some more. Apply a coating of paste wax to the underside of the sole to create a frictionless motion when gliding.
Tuning a Plane Before First Use
The intention of adjusting any Japanese plane is straightforward – to set the blade firmly and evenly within the plane’s frame so that it is held firmly in place with the proper amount of the blade exposed to the wood.
Tools required
The tools required are few but can be specialized. They are;
A small hammer or mallet for gently tapping the blade or the plane body while adjusting the blade. A crowned striking face will remove the likelihood of damage to the wooden body, along with gentle, repeated taps.
A method of flattening the back of the blade. We recommend our glass plate with adhesive sandpaper, used in conjunction with water stones.
A method of sharpening the bevel. We use our range of Cerax Waterstones.
A fine tool for paring the sides of the plane that may constrict the blade. A small 3mm chisel or fine file is ideal.
A lead pencil
A way of paring away timber in small increments from below the back of the blade. A flat file or sharp chisel of about 12-18mm works well.
Finally, a metal file for tuning the rear corners of the chip breaker to seat it close to the blade’s edge.
Flattening the back of the blade
It is essential to have a level top on the blade for forming a pointed cutting edge along the length of it, which is also necessary for locking the chip breaker snugly with the blade.
We employ a smooth glass plate with adhesive sandpaper glued on it to make our water stones level when they are not wet. By rubbing the back of the blade against a flat stone, the raised areas will appear duller on a coarse stone; meanwhile, the areas that weren’t affected by the stone will still be the same as when it left the factory. It’s typically enough to start the process with a 1000-grit stone, but if the blade is unusually uneven, it’s faster to employ a rougher stone or flatten the back of the stone first before continuing with the water stone.
We only sharpen the first 10mm of the blade – its cutting edge – and just enough material behind it to keep the blade even and steady when placed on a stone.
Once the back of the edge has been leveled out evenly, progress to the finer grade of abrasive. No matter what kind of Waterstone, oil, or diamond stone you have, it will work as long as the surface is even. Diamond stones are engineered to remain in a flat state and are especially effective at doing so while needing minimal servicing.
Sharpening the bevel of the blade
Maintaining well-honed tools is absolutely essential for woodworking, and it is something that can be learned and improved on over the course of your life. There are a number of methods and instruments used for achieving a “sharp” finish, but this guide will provide a helpful introduction to using Japanese water stones to obtain positive outcomes.
All our tools come with an angled base cut, but they are not as sharp as they are able to become. It matters which manufacturer creates the tools as to whether the bevels have a smooth, flat surface or a “hollow grind.” Despite the difference, they are both able to be balanced on a flat sharpening stone with only the pressure from by hand.
Blades that have already been used may have deep scratches or corrosion, meaning resurfacing of the bevel needs to be done. On the other hand, a new blade will be without any dents or gouges and often would only need to be taken to a 1000-grit stone in order to be prepared. Lay the cutting edge of the blade facing downwards on the rock, keeping it in a way that sustains the tool’s angle.
Apply a light force while maintaining the same angle and move the tool back and forth on the stone. The most basic yet most complicated part of honing an instrument on a Waterstone is encapsulated in a single sentence. Be patient, and experiment with what works for you. Distribute the honing motions around the stone evenly to help prevent a cup or dish shape as the stone is ground down during sharpening.
Going beyond the 1000-grit stone will offer you a more refined bevel and a sharper edge. If you do not have access to rougher stones, the liquid that was sloshed around on 1000 one can be applied to a section of softwood to make it act like a strap. By agitating the slurry on wood, it breaks down the 1000-grit particles into much smaller sizes, thus creating 2000 and 3000-grit abrasives that give the blade a polished finish.
If you have higher grit stones, like the combination stones of 1000/3000 and 1000/6000, do the same procedure for each grit until the bevel has a consistent finish. After using a 3000-grit stone, a planer or chisel blade should have no difficulty in cutting hair. To check their sharpness, it is better to test them on wood rather than subjecting yourself to potential explanations later.
Hold the plane up to the light while the blade is nearly out of the bottom to make sure the blade is not touching either side of the plane body. A spacing of 0.5mm between the edges of the blade and the base of the plane is required in order to properly secure the blade to the sole.
If one of the sides does not have a gap, this issue can be resolved. Take out the blade and employ a 3mm gouge or a narrow rasp to pare away some material from the inside of the plane body where it is collaborating with the side of the blade.
You would want the saw blade to make the same angle as the sole of the tool, with 0.5mm space on both edges of the blade. After the cutting edge of the blade is precisely in the place that you want it to be, double-check all measurements, especially if the blade isn’t resting in a perfect square shape.
